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Build Your Own Rabbit Hutch

There are two basic ways to build a rabbit hutch. One is with an outdoor self-contained hutch. These typically have wooden frames and wire cages, and two to four rabbits are kept in each of the hutches. These units are portable and can be moved around in the shade to keep the rabbits cool in the summer. In colder months, they can be brought indoors for protection of the rabbits from snow and wind. Another way to start is with steel wire hutches suspended from the joists or ceiling indoors. They can also be simply placed upon a framework inside and existing building.

If you have basic mechanical skills, you can make these cages with wire bought at the local hardware store. Or you can buy ready-made wire hutches.

diy rabbit hutchSome Basics to Consider
Avoid any cages and hutches made entirely from wood. These will become soaked with urine and are difficult to sanitize between litters. And an even bigger problem is that the rabbits will tend to gnaw on the wood.

From the standpoint of easier management, sanitation, and good health, avoid all-wooden hutches. And be wary of used cages, as you may be inadvertently buying the former owner’s health problems.

The floor area needed to house a full-grown rabbit varies with breed and size, but hutches should generally be built about 30 inches wide and never less than 24 inches wide. This allows you to easily reach the rear of the hutch.

The length of the hutch should vary by breed: Small breeds are fine with a two-foot long hutch; medium breeds need about three-foot long hutches. Large breeds need four-foot long hutches.

A free-standing outdoor hutch should be covered with a tight, sloping roof two feet above the floor in the front and 18 inches above the floor in the rear. Allowing a six- to eight-inch overhang in the front is also good for rain runoff and shade.

The floor is the most important aspect of the construction of the hutch. It should be more or less self-cleaning to protect the rabbits’ health.

By “self-cleaning” they should allow urine and droppings to fall to the ground. Floors can be made of 16-gauge wire or galvanized metal. If the wire has holes that are overly wide, they may prove uncomfortable for the rabbits to move around on. Outdoors, urine and droppings can fall to the soil; indoors, you will need a pan or plastic sheeting under the hutch to catch the droppings.

Building a Basic Wire Rabbit Hutch
Constructing an all-wire rabbit hutch is the easiest, most affordable option for the typical homesteader.

Constructing several independent rabbit hutches makes them easier to move around outdoors during the summer and bring indoors during the winter. It also helps prevent disease from spreading from one hutch to the next, as they can be isolated and quarantined if necessary.

While you can build your own with the following instructions and materials, you can also acquire perfectly good wire rabbit hutches inexpensively from retailers.

Basic Rabbit Hutch
• Plywood
• Wood stain or outdoor paint
• Metal Hinges
• 2x4 wooden boards
• Screws
• Metal ties
• Saw
• Wire cutters
• Wire mesh (16- to 18-gauge)
• Gate hook and eye

Cage Instructions
Measure and cut the 2x4 boards to the desired length for the size of the rabbit hutch you want to build. A hutch that is 4’ long by 2’ deep is ideal for 3-5 rabbits. Cut more 2x4 wooden boards to the desired height; 2’ in the front by 18” in the rear will provide a slanted roof for outdoor hutches. Screw the support posts to the frame.

Measure and cut the wire mesh, and attach it to the four upright posts. Use metal ties to attach the wire tightly to the posts and crosspieces. With the wire cutters, trim any excess mesh so it is flush with the frame on the bottom and three of the four sides (two long sides, and one short side).

The Door. Measure and cut 2x4 boards to fit securely on the remaining side of the hutch. Attach wire mesh tightly to the doorframe, and attach the door to the cage using the metal hinges. Screw the gate hook into the door and the eye into the cage frame. Fill in the triangular gap above the door with plywood or more wire mesh.

The Roof. Cut a piece of plywood to fit securely on the top of the cage. Paint it with exterior paint or stain it so it is water resistant. If desired, you can attach shingles to protect it from the elements instead. Nail or screw the plywood roof into place. If desired, you can also attach the roof on hinges, which may make cleaning the cage and accessing the rabbits easier.

Accessories. If desired, you can attach a watering bottle or feeding tray as well; you will likely have to cut the wire mesh to accommodate these items.

Back to the Basics

Your Feedback
Have you built a rabbit hutch? What recommendations do you have? What should other people take into consideration? How does maintaining rabbits fit into your self-sufficiency strategy?

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11 thoughts on “Build Your Own Rabbit Hutch”

  • Donald Ira Pendleton
    Donald Ira Pendleton May 28, 2014 at 9:21 pm

    I was hoping to get the booklet on tips also.
    The popup moved to fast for me to enter the information.
    I gleaned a lot of information I hadn't thought about raising rabbits and making hutches.

  • Tom Ozminkowski
    Tom Ozminkowski May 28, 2014 at 11:02 pm

    When I last built a rabbit hutch, it was similar to your recommendations, with a few minor changes. For one, I only used 2x4's for the legs (the floor was 3' off the ground) which were lag-bolted to the framing pieces. All other framing was done with ripped 2x4's (1x2's and 1x1's). The dimensions were ~2'x6', and the floor was 1/2" x 1/2" wire fencing. That proved to be the ideal size for letting droppings fall through without hurting their feet - even for the babies (Yeah, one of our 2 'males' wasn't so manly after all.)

    I also built a completely separate nesting box out of 1x1's and plywood (hinged top) that sat inside on extra cross-braces. I used the scrap piece of plywood I cut for the door as a ramp for the babies. I got some old 2x3' baking pans from a local bakery that I set on cross pieces underneath to catch droppings when it was in the garage for the winter. The cage worked well for several years. We eventually sold it to a friend who used it for several more years.

    They were fun, quiet, gentle pets that helped us teach our kids many things about the world around them.

  • Mark

    I have the land, so I am free ranging my rabbits. Tight parameter fence, top cover fencing (tall enough to walk under) to repel hawks and owls. I have one buck and two does and each has their own separate area and "hole" made out of a plastic roughneck storage bin buried up to the lid. The top of the lid is insulated with 4" of foam board, but the lid is removable to be able to check the "nest". I cut two tunnels into the bin made of piping big enough for the rabbits to enter and exit. The tunnel piping is also buried. They eat the grass in their area and I provide them water. They seem to be thriving and happier than being caged.

  • Sheryl

    If you breed rabbits, beware of the occasional female who will eat her offspring. In my experience, once you have a female that does that, she will continue to do it to subsequent litters. Then you have the choice of just keeping her for a pet, or slaughtering her for food. Fried rabbit really does taste just like fried chicken.

  • Kim

    We built a rabbit cage after my in-laws gave us a bunny that had been abandoned by its former owner. Something actually chewed through the heavy wire mesh and dragged the rabbit out. We think it was either a dog or a coyote. What could we do to prevent that from happening again? My husband used the heaviest available mesh to build the cage and it just wasn't any match for this animal's jaw strength. Would putting metal bars across the bottom of the cage help, or does anyone have a cheaper alternative? We can't keep a rabbit indoors.

    • MMS

      If you have a dog/coyote problem, even wire bars may not help. I've heard of rabbits dying of heart attack when an animal tries to tear into the hutch - so you'll have a dead rabbit either way. Not a nice thing if you are keeping this as a pet. I'm guessing this type of hutch is best at least in a protected yard if you can't keep it indoors.

  • Why creul world!!!
    Why creul world!!! February 25, 2015 at 1:02 pm

    it is not too helpful.i dont even think they mentioned how many of what you need.even a picture would be helpful! i mean like... REALLY!!!

  • Bill

    This is a great cage. I have two rabbits that are I itand it is working very good. It took a week to make it but I did it.

  • Nanny K

    Rabbits can be "potty trained" like a cat. If it is safe around the house during the day, let it be a house pet. We kept ours in a cage at night for safety's sake. We lost him when a friend came over with a dog that tried to get him in his cage....he had a heart attack. We lost a sweet pet that made us laugh and gave us lots of love.

  • Jim Daniel

    You somehow missed the concept, as unsavory as it may sound to humans, that Rabbits eat their own droppings.

    I have heard several reasons why, but I know they do this in the wild and it has a bearing on their digestion somehow. It makes some sense that babies consume the feces of adults to start the bacterial process in their gut.

    I learned this from an old timer (I'm now 70, and he was older than that when I was in 4-H) about this and my rabbit project was healthy and productive.

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