Using a home canner is a great way to preserve foods in mason jars. Using a home canner can help you save money and become more self-reliant. However, not everything can be canned!

Home canners are great for canning certain vegetables and fruits but are unable to reach the heat required to properly can foods that are too oily, have high fat content, or are too viscous. Commercial canneries also use additives, preservatives and processing equipment that you can’t replicate at home.

- Check out this high-end, inexpensive canning equipment - 

Check out this list of 10 items that you shouldn’t can at home:

Milk
Milk, or items containing milk, aren’t recommended for home-canning. Milk has a low-acid level and supports an environment which fosters botulism growth at room temperature. Many times, the fat in milk can also protect botulism spores during the canning process.

Lard
With the high density and fat content, lard is just not a good item to can. The fatness and density won’t allow the heat of the canning process to penetrate the contents, allowing the food to house spores and other harmful bacteria.

Refried Beans
There are some recipes out there for canning refried beans but they can be dangerous. The thickness of the refried beans is too much for the heat to penetrate the interior of the bottle. You might be better off getting freeze-dried refried beans instead.

Pickled Eggs
Once again, density is a problem with canning pickled eggs. The skin of the egg is a little too much for your home canner to handle.

Butter or Cream
Like milk, butter or cream items, are not recommended for home canning. The amount of heat required for dairy items to be canned correctly would actually make the foods inedible. It’s not recommended that you can any items with dairy at home.

Cornstarch
Lots of families want to can cornstarch to use in future baking projects. However items that contain cornstarch shouldn’t be canned because of their ability to break down acidic food mixtures and interfere with heat-killing pathogens.

Flour
A popular trend is for people to create “cakes in a jar” or other dishes containing flour. Flour products (breads, doughs, etc) are very prone to botulism.

Nuts and Cashews
Most nuts have an oily texture and can lead to botulism. The oily outside coats and insulates botulism spores and creates an anaerobic micro-environment which allows the spores to live in a high-heat environment.

Meats
Most meats and fish are too oily to be canned correctly. The oil allows for botulism spores to stay inside the jar.

Purees
Similar to refried beans or peanut butter, purees like pumpkin puree or squash puree are too gelatinous to can at home. Cooking cubed pumpkin however, is a nice alternative that is safe to eat. Cubed squash however will compress during heating and become too thick.

Please Note
This list is made of items that have unproven canning recipes. Before you say, “I’ve canned those items and I’m fine,” please note that many canned foods aren’t guaranteed to have botulism spores but they are unproved when using the home canning process. Just remember that because your items haven’t had botulism spores in the past doesn’t mean they couldn’t in the future.

Herbs have been used for thousands of years as a medicine to help your body heal naturally and effectively. Herbs such as Borage, Yarrow, Cayenne and more can be used to treat infections, fight blood loss, treat sickness and more.Check out this list of common herbs that you might use to help you in an emergency. Knowing how to use herbs to heal your body will help you become more self-sufficient and help you save money.

Before You Use Herbs
While herbs are natural, it does not mean they can be taken without caution. Medicinal Herbs can be very powerful and the compounds in them can interact with other drugs, medicines or herbs you may be taking so investigate before you start taking something new.

As with anything, it is recommended to consult your physician before taking any medications, supplements or before making any significant changes to your dietary habits including the use of medicinal herbs.  Side effects can occur with any of these herbs, the most common of which may be an allergic reaction. Again, consult a physician about us­ing these herbs and proper dosing.

Children, women who are pregnant or hope to be pregnant, and those with compromised immunity should take caution before using these herbs.  Prolonged use may lead to lower effectiveness.

Borage
Borage is one of the few plants with a true blue flower which is also edible. Borage leaves and flowers can be eaten fresh or dried. The leaves eaten fresh have a taste similar to cucumber and the flower a sweet taste. Natural herbalist use Borage to regulate the metabolism and hormone system, some claiming it helps with PMS and hot flashes.^[1] It is also used as an anti-inflam­matory as Borage is the highest known natural producer of gamma linolenic acid (GLA) and is medically accepted as “possibly effective” for the treatment of rheumatoid arthritis, lung function in ill patients and growth and devel­opment of premature babies.^[2] Borage should not be taken if you have liver disease.Borage is typically made into tea or eaten fresh on salads.Plant borage in healthy, well-drained soil with full sun to partial shade expo­sure. Plant after the danger of frost has passed and plant in tight clusters so plants support each other as they grow (8 inches apart).

Calendula
Calendula is also called a pot marigold but, as a member of the daisy fam­ily, looks more like a daisy. The pedals of the calendula flower are edible and thought to work as an anti-viral and anti-inflammatory.^[3] It has also been used to treat acne, constipation and abdominal cramps. Calendula has also been used topically and reported to help reduce swelling and bleeding including hemorrhoids and to help wounds heal faster.^[4] Dried Calendula is found in many ointments. Calendula may cause drowsiness so take caution.Typically fresh flower pedals are added to salads, or eaten directly. Dried pedals are sometimes used to replace saffron. It is also applied directly to the skin.Plant in healthy, well-drained soil with full sun. Plant after the danger of frost has passed about 1/4 inch deep. Plant about 16 inches apart and dead head flowers to keep the plant blooming. If the heat of summer begins to make plant appear sick, cut back heavily and keep watered. Plant will bloom again as weather cools.Discuss with a doctor before taking and to establish dosage. University of Maryland recommends same and offers that historic Adult dosages have been:

• Infusion: 1 tsp (5 – 10 g) dried florets in 8 oz (250 mL) water; steep 10 – 15 minutes; drink 2 – 3 cups per day
• Fluid extract (1:1 in 40% alcohol): 0.5 – 1.0 mL 3 times per day
• Tincture (1:5 in 90% alcohol): 5 – 10 drops (1 – 2 mL) 3 times per day
• Ointment: 2 – 5% calendula; apply 3 – 4 times per day as needed

Cayenne
Cayenne hot peppers have been used as both a food and a medicine by Native Americans for thousands of years. Cayenne peppers can be eaten fresh when they are red or green, used in cooking, dried and ground into pepper flakes, or pulped-dried and then ground into a fine powder.The main active ingredient in Cayenne is Capsaicin which has been used to treat digestive problems, help with pain relief and help with circulatory prob­lems. Capsaicin cream is used to treat arthritis, muscle pain and shingles. In addition, capsaicin is the key ingredient in personal defense sprays.^[5]Start pepper plants indoors 7 weeks before the projected last frost date for your area and transplant when the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed in late spring. Peppers love warm soil, sunny locations and well-drained soil.Discuss with a doctor before taking and to establish dosage. University of Maryland recommends same and offers that historic Adult dosages have been:

• For shingles, psoriasis, arthritis, or muscle pain: Capsaicin cream (0.025 – 0.075% capsaicin) may be applied directly to the affected area up to 4 times a day. Pain may slightly increase at first, but then may get better over the next few days. Capsaicin should be applied regularly several times a day. It usually takes 3 – 7 days before you notice substantial pain relief.

NOTE: Be sure to completely wash your hands with soap and water after handling, water alone won’t remove capsaicin. If you are sensitive or want to ensure you wash as much capsaicin as possible try using a diluted vinegar solution.

Dandelion
Dandelion’s are a common site and frustration in our lawns, however, dande­lions are entirely edible and are a good source of vitamins A, B complex, C and D^[6]. They are also high in iron, potassium, and zinc. The most common historic uses for dandelion are as a diuretic, to treat mild digestive problems or increase appetite, and to treat liver issues. Some people have had allergic reactions to the pollen so try in small doses if you are unsure.Dandelion can be eaten fresh in salads, blanched (which will also remove some of the bitterness) or dried. The flowers are used by many to make dandelion wine. Young leaves are much less bitter than fully mature leaves. The root can be dry roasted over high heat until the color of a good roasted coffee bean and ground up as a caffeine free coffee or tea substitute. When harvesting roots, second year crops, harvested in the autumn will give you the best yield and best flavor.As you probably know, dandelions will grow well just about anywhere and if care is not taken will quickly spread. If you are cropping dandelions they will be best if planted in light soil to give the root good development. Con­stant care should be taken to collect seed heads before they spread.Discuss with a doctor before taking and to establish dosage. University of Maryland recommends same and offers that historic Adult dosages have been:

• Dried leaf infusion: 1 – 2 teaspoonfuls, 3 times daily. Pour hot water onto dried leaf and steep for 5 – 10 minutes. Drink as directed.
• Dried root decoction: 1/2 – 2 teaspoonfuls, 3 times daily. Place root into boiling water for 5 – 10 minutes. Strain and drink as directed.
• Leaf tincture (1:5) in 30% alcohol: 30 – 60 drops, 3 times daily
• Standardized powdered extract (4:1) leaf: 500 mg, 1 – 3 times daily
• Standardized powdered extract (4:1) root: 500 mg, 1 – 3 times daily
• Root tincture (1:2) fresh root in 45% alcohol: 30 – 60 drops, 3 times daily

Echinacea
Echinacea, also a member of the daisy family, is one of the most common herbs used today and has of recent been heavily promoted as a treatment to prevent or shorten the development of the common cold. Historically, Echi­nacea was used by the Native Americans to treat the symptoms of the cold such as headaches, sore throats, cough, and fever.Echinacea can be eaten fresh, dried, made into teas, juiced, or applied exter­nally.Direct sow in spring under ¼ inch of well-drained soil in a sunny location. Echinacea is drought tolerant and can do well without lots of water once established.Discuss with a doctor before taking and to establish dosage. Suggested Adult dosages for general immune system stimulation, during colds, flu, upper respiratory tract infections, or bladder infections, choose from the following forms and take 3 times a day until you feel better, but not for more than 7 – 10 days:• 1 – 2 grams dried root or herb, as tea

• 2 – 3 mL of standardized tincture extract
• 6 – 9 mL of expressed juice (succus)
• 300 mg of standardized, powdered extract containing 4% phenolics
• Tincture (1:5): 1 – 3 mL (20 – 90 drops)
• Stabilized fresh extract: 0.75 mL (15 – 23 drops)
• Apply to wounds as needed

Fenugreek
Fenugreek is a very versatile and useful plant. The dried or fresh leaves are used as an herb, the seeds are a popular spice and the fresh leaves are edible. There is reasonable scientific support for the use of fenugreek in the treat­ment of diabetes.^[7] It is also widely used to promote increased milk produc­tion in lactating women and increased libido in men.Leaves can be eaten fresh, sautéed, or dried. Seeds often roasted to open up their flavors and release some bitterness and are used whole or in a powdered form.Direct sow Fenugreek in a sunny location and thin as necessary with final planting about 4 inches apart. Seeds form in long brown pods that develop near the summer. Fenugreek is slow to grow in cold wet climates.

Hyssop
Hyssop has a very strong flavor which is similar to mint. Hyssop leaves are used in salads and soups. Hyssop also is used when cooking meat.Hyssop has traditionally been used to treat pulmonary conditions^[8] and is most used as an expectorant. Hyssop tea is the usual means of taking in the herb with people either steeping the green tops or steeping the dried Hyssop flowers in hot water.Direct sow Hyssop seeds in the spring in a sunny well drained location about 12 inches apart. Hyssop is fairly hardy once established and can continue to be propagated from cuttings. Like other woody herbs Hyssop will need to be replaced every few years otherwise becomes too woody. Hyssop also will benefit from being cut back from time to time.

Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is a member of the mint family and has a strong lemony sent and flavor. It is frequently used to treat cold sores, promote relaxation and as a mosquito repellent. Research is also being conducted to look at lemon balm as possibly effective for Alzheimer’s. ^[9]Direct sow in spring or early fall in a cool and partially shaded location. Cover with 1/8th inch of soil. Trimming will result in additional branching producing a bushier more robust plant. As a member of the mint family, Lemon balm with self-propagate through its root structure and can quickly spread.Discuss with a doctor before taking and to establish dosage. University of Maryland recommends same and offers that historic Adult dosages have been:• Capsules: Take 300 – 500 mg dried lemon balm, 3 times daily or as needed.

• Tea: 1.5 – 4.5 grams (1/4 – 1 teaspoonful) of dried lemon balm herb in hot water. Steep and drink up to 4 times daily.
• Tincture: 60 drops of lemon balm daily
• Topical: Apply topical cream to affected area, 3 times daily or as direct­ed.
• For cold sores or herpes sores, steep 2 – 4 teaspoonfuls of crushed leaf in 1 cup boiling water for 10 – 15 minutes. Cool. Apply tea with cotton balls to the sores throughout the day.

Lovage
Lovage is an extremely versatile plant. Its leaves are a very flavorful herb reminiscent of parsley and celery. The roots are a delicious vegetable that tastes great braised. The stalks can be eaten similar to celery. The seeds are a great spice that add tremendous flavor to bread. Because it is so similar in flavor to parsley and celery it is a common replacement for them in recipes.As a medicinal, lovage has been historically used to treat sore throats, treat indigestion and help rheumatism.^[10] It has even been used in shoes as a deodorant  Of course, it is also thought to be an aphrodisiac. Like many herbs lovage leaves will become a bit bitterer after the plant flowers so leaves are best harvested before flowering. Lovage is best direct sowed in the fall is a sunny to partially shady location. Lovage can become quite large so give it about 2 to 3 feet.

Yarrow
Yarrow is a well-known herb which has been which has been used for hun­dreds of years. One primary benefit of yarrow is that it is easy to grow and tolerates drought and less fertile soil better than many other plants. As an added benefit yarrow attracts many beneficial garden insects.Yarrow is most typically used for its ability to slow bleeding and is used on cuts and abrasions or bloody noses.^[11] The leaves can also be dried or cooked in a soup.Sow yarrow seed under no more than 1/8th an inch of soil in the late spring. Yarrow prefers a sunny location and can tolerate dryer conditions than most other plants.Discuss with a doctor before taking and to establish dosage. Suggested dos­ages have been:• Capsules: Take 300 – 500 mg dried lemon balm, 3 times daily or as needed.

• Tea: 1.5 – 4.5 grams (1/4 – 1 teaspoonful) of dried yarrow flower in hot water. Steep and drink up to 4 times daily.
• Tincture: ¼ to ½ teaspoon – 2 to 5 times a day
• Topical: directly chew root for temporary relief from tooth ache. For wounds, apply a clean cloth soaked in a strong yarrow infusion directly to wound.

Your Recommendations
So, what herbs do you find most helpful? Comment below to share your knowledge and help others along their way.

^[1] http://thehealthblog.us/2013/01/borage-flowers-that-help-heal.html
^[2] US National Library of Medicine National Institute of Health: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11710548
^[3] US National Library of Medicine National Institute of Health: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19374166
^[4] Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center: http://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/disclaimer?msk_disclaimer_herb=1&destination=%2Fcancer-care%2Fherb%2Fcalendula
^[5] University of Maryland Medical Center: http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/cayenne–000230.htm
^[6] http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/vegetables-and-vegetable-products/2441/2
^[7] US National Library of Medicine National Institute of Health http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19857068
^[8] US Pharmacist Publication http://legacy.uspharmacist.com/oldformat.asp?url=newlook/files/Comp/hyssop.htm&pub_id=8&article_id=741
^[9] http://alzheimers.about.com/od/alternativetreatments/a/Lemon_balm.htm
^[10] Alberta Agriculture and Rural Development http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/crop843?opendocument
^[11] University of Maryland. School of Medicine. http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/yarrow-000282.htm

Mother Nature has been rotating through the composting process of decomposing organic material into rich soil that will foster new life for longer than any of us can imagine.

You can use that same process at an accelerated pace to save you money and help you become self-reliant with a nutrient-rich garden.

Composting significantly reduces pest problems while creating healthy plants that use less pesticides. You’re adding organic material to your soil to help improve moisture retention and composting saves money while providing a healthy balance to your soil.

How to Compost
While composting is a natural process, there are ways that you can make it go faster. Here’s how:

1. Pick a dry, shady spot to locate your compost pile. You’ll want to make sure that there is a water source nearby and that the pile is close to the area you plan to use the compost.

2. Collect organic material like grass clippings, old fruit peels, etc. (we’ll talk more about this below) that you can use in your compost pile. You’ll want to chop these items up as much as possible – the smaller the pieces, the faster they will break down.

3. Lay down a layer of 6-inches of paper shreds or dried leaves. These are rich in carbon and should work well as a first layer. Wet down the material until they are moist – but not too wet. They should have the moisture of a wrung out sponge.

4. Next, you’ll add a 3-inch layer of nitrogen-rich materials like kitchen scraps, grass clippings, etc.

NOTE: The optimal compost heap should maintain about a 3-to-1 ratio of organic carbon material to nitrogen material. Your pile will also need to be at least 1 yard wide to maintain the heat it needs.

5. Add another 3-inch layer of leaves or paper strips followed by a 3-inch layer of nitrogen-rich material. Repeat this a few times until your pile is sufficiently tall.

6. Once you’ve built up your pile, sprinkle a handful of healthy garden soil or a previous compost pile on top. This will boost the level of microbes in the soil that are needed to break down the materials.

7. Turn your compost pile with a pitchfork every few week or two. Mix the layers making sure that moisture is evenly distributed and the outer layers are moved to the inside to redistribute heat.

8. After a few weeks you may notice that the pile stinks or might even be steaming – this is fine – it’s working.

What Can I Use to Compost?
Composting focuses on locating good materials that are rich in nitrogen or rich in carbon. Here are a few ideas:

It’s not recommended that you use meat, bones or dairy products to create compost. The grease and oils break down slower and draw animals to the compost pile.

Do You Compost?
Have you tried composting? Did it work well for you? What advice do you have for the new gardeners out there? Comment below to let us know!

In the late 1990s, the military had a wide variety of ready-to-eat meals (MREs) at their disposal. They had created a line of foods that were served up in pouches and ready to eat anywhere in the battlefield. They could be dropped from 100 feet and be ripped open immediately for consumption.

However, there were a few meals that the military men and women still wanted.

- Military Meals Throughout History - 

“All of our meals are warfighter tested and warfighter approved,” said Gerry Darsch, Director of the Department of Defenses’ Combat Feeding Program, in an exclusive interview with The Ready Nation. “In the early ‘90s, we started getting feedback that they wanted a pocket sandwich in the battlefield. Something like you’d find in the freezer section, like Hot Pockets™.”

Up to this point, the military had created many MREs including spaghetti, lasagna, vegetable dishes and more. However, many food items couldn’t be packaged into a meal that would remain stable in a pouch for 5 years.

“We couldn’t package things like eggs, seafoods or sandwiches,” Darsch said. “They were just too delicate and wouldn’t be able to withstand the packaging process. So, we put our best and brightest into developing a system that allows us to create shelf-stable foods like these that would last for years and still provide the nutrients that we needed.”

There were a few hurdles to overcome in those early days. It wasn’t as easy as preparing a bowl of food and throwing it into a pouch. Since the MREs had to be shelf-stable for 5 years, there was a lot of testing and science that went into the process.

“There are many aspects that have to be controlled while you create an MRE,” Darsch said. “You have to control the oxygen content, making sure that bacteria can’t grow in there. However, sometimes you have to make sure that natural bacteria, found in the atmosphere, are available for the food.

“The pH balance also needs to be closely monitored and control things like the water activity and micro-biological activity. You also want to pack as many calories into as small a space as possible so they have enough energy to keep them running.”

- Make Your Own MRE Style Packages - 

Darsch shared that in those early days, certain funding was slim and the department was forced to visit local hospitals to place pouched foods in MRI machines. They would closely monitor how bacteria or water movement was affecting the food on the inside of the pouch. Now, the department has its own machine and doesn’t have to borrow from local hospitals.

Through MRI scanning, packaging testing, nutritional analysis and more, Darsch’s department was able to crack the code and figure out how to combine all of those required aspects. The department began using methods like pasteurized sterilization, microwave-assisted thermo stabilization, pressure-assisted thermal stabilization and more. All of these methods combined to create a more effective packaging process.

“The new method is incredible,” Darsch said. “The difference between the old retort method and the microwave assisted method is eye-opening. And the best part is that the nutrient retention is better.”

The new process allows for better nutrient retention, a more familiar taste and a wider selection of foods.

“We were first to revolutionize microwave-assisted sterilization and move past simple retort packaging. But once you can break that code, there is a whole family of foods that you can work with and create shelf-stable meals that will last a long time.”

Figuring out the process did take a while though. What started in the early ‘90s wasn’t actually used in the battlefield until 2008 in Afghanistan.

So, what’s next for the Combat Feeding Program?

- Alternative Uses for MRE Heaters - 

“We have some very exciting problems to figure out,” Darsch said. “We’re currently looking into a few projects including machines that would use all the waste from the food (packaging and dropping equipment) to power itself … We’re also looking at nutraceuticals that would allow our military to increase muscle usability, have extended durability and higher physical effects.”

All-in-all, the current position and future of the Combat Feeding Program is exciting and an important aspect of our military efficiency.

Making your own homemade vinegar is a great way to save money and become more self-sufficient. With a simple process, you can create your own vinegar to add to your family’s food storage.

The majority of vinegars made by homesteaders are apple cider vinegars or some type of variation. The process is pretty simple and the materials are pretty easy to come by. Below, we’ve listed some directions on how you can make your own.

Helpful Hints
Be Clean. Creating vinegar is a process of fermentation. However, you want the right bacteria to be growing in the jar of vinegar. If you aren’t washing your hands and allow foreign bacteria from your hands or the countertop you’re working on to get inside the container, the vinegar probably won’t turn out right.

- 30 Amazing Uses for Baking Soda - 

Don’t Use Metal Containers. We recommend using a mason jar to hold your vinegar. Placing vinegar inside metal containers will react badly and create a metallic taste or even poison.

Sweet Sugar. Your alcohol that you’re creating will be a lot stronger if you don’t hold back on the sugar in the first step. The stronger the alcohol, the better the vinegar will keep on the shelf.

Step 1: Making the Alcohol
You’ll need:

• Apple scraps or cores (You may use other fruit if you want to experiment)
• Large Mason Jars
• Sugar
• Water
• Cheesecloth or flour sack cloth
• Bungee cord or twine

You’ll first want to place the fruit scraps in the large jar or container. In a separate container, add 1/4 cup sugar to every 1 quart of water. Stir well or until dissolved. Add the sugar water to the scraps until the fruit is covered in liquid.

Cover the container with a cheesecloth or sackcloth and tie the top down with a cord. This will allow the contents to breath but still keep out fruit flies or bees. Place the container in an area that maintains a 65-80 degrees F temperature. Check the containers daily and allow the concoction to sit for about a week. If the liquid begins to bubble, don’t worry; just allow it to finish its bubbling process.

Step 2: Converting the Alcohol to Vinegar
You’ll need:

• Strainer
• Cheesecloth
• Wide-top Jar

Once the liquid is no longer bubbling and has darkened, it’s ready for the next process. Remove the cheesecloth or sackcloth and strain the contents to remove large chunks of the fruit. Once you’ve strained the contents, filter them through the cheesecloth in order to remove smaller particles. Once you’ve strained and filtered the contents, place the liquid in a wide-topped container. You’ll want the mixture to react with a lot of oxygen and need a large opening to do so. After you’re done, place a cheesecloth cover on top of the jar and store in a faintly lighted area.

- Make Your Own House Cleaners for Pennies - 

Storing the contents in a well-light area will prevent the alcohol turning to vinegar. This is also the time when you have to hope that the right bacteria are in the mixture.

The bacterium that reacts to make vinegar is prominent in our atmosphere but many times, in hot and humid areas, there are lots of other bacteria in the atmosphere which will ruin the concoction. You’ll want to keep an eye on the mixture and see if it changes. Maintain the temperature of the room as much as possible. This process can take anywhere from a few weeks to 6 months.

Keep watching the mixture to see if a film begins to form on the surface. This brown-grey film is what is referred to as the Mother. If you see that film begin to form, you know that it’s working correctly. If you see the film, leave it alone and let the Mother do its work. When the mother sinks to the bottom, you’ll know it’s finished.

You can use the Mother in your next batch and add it to the mixture at the beginning of step 2 to get a jumpstart on your bacterial growth.

Storing Your Vinegar
Once the Mother has sunk to the bottom, strain the mixture through the cheesecloth until it reaches the desired strength that you’d like. Store the vinegar in a glass container and remember not to use a metal lid.

Lots of Options
The process of making vinegar has been around for thousands of years – thus, there are a lot of different ways to make it! We’ve also heard of people making honey vinegar, berry vinegars and using apple cider to create apple cider vinegar.

Comment below to tell us if you’ve made your own vinegar and how you did it. If you have any advice, share it with the Ready Nation and spread your knowledge.

You might also be interested in:
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Aquaponics gardening is a growing trend that allows families to create a self-sustaining environment that grows vegetables, fruits, flowers and more with as little maintenance as possible.

The first time I was told about aquaponics gardening, I thought it was going to be very dirty and moldy but was pleasantly surprised to find that it wasn’t like that at all. Aquaponics gardens can be as small or as large as you’d like it to be. They create enough food in a small space and require very little maintenance. Below, we’ve outlined a few items to consider on whether an aquaponics garden would work for you.

Best of Both Worlds
The Aquaponic Gardening Community defined aquaponics as the following:

“Aquaponics is a cultivation of fish and plants together in a constructed, recirculating ecosystem utilizing natural bacterial cycles to convert fish waste to plant nutrients. This is an environmentally friendly, natural food-growing method that harnesses the best attributes of aquaculture and hydroponics without the need to discard any water or filtrate or add chemical fertilizers.”

Basically, aquaponics is a food production system. It combines aquaculture (raising animals such as fish, prawns or snails in water) with hydroponics (growing plants in water instead of soil). The goal of aquaponics is to create a fully self-sustaining system of food.

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Both aquaculture and hydroponics require a lot of intervention to maintain. For example, in aquaculture, you have to ensure that the waste from the fish is removed before it builds to toxic levels. In hydroponics, one has to continually replenish and balance chemical nutrients or the plant will die. With aquaponics however, the two systems balance each other out to create a self-sustaining environment.

How does it work?
Aquaponics isn’t that hard. Fish produce waste that turns into nitrate and ammonia. If this builds up too much, it hurts the fish. However, this nitrate and ammonia acts as a fertilizer for the plants and prevents the build up. As the plants suck up the nutrients, it cleanses the water for the fish.

Once the system is setup correctly, only small amounts of water are needed to keep the system going. When the water evaporates naturally, it needs to be replaced. The most common fish used in an aquaponics system is tilapia because they require very little maintenance and reproduce very rapidly.

Before You Get Started
Before you start gathering tanks, pumps and fish, there are a few things you need to consider:

Where. Where will your system be located? Many aquaponics systems are portable (might take you a whole afternoon to move it, but still portable) and are great for areas where outdoor gardening is prohibited by seasons. You’ll need to consider how large your system will be and where you can easily house it. Perhaps a greenhouse? A basement with lighting? On another property? All of this depends on how large your aquaponics system will be.

When. Many fish hatcheries won’t ship fish during the winter months. Some plants are hard to establish during colder times of the year. It takes some time to get the bacteria to grow in your aquaponics ecosystem. All of these are considerations on when you’ll be starting your aquaponics system.

- Need an easy chart to tell when produce is in season? - 

Who. Who will be in charge of taking care of the system? Will children be around the system? If so, this may impact how tall you create the system, if it has windows, how often you want to cultivate, etc.

Building the Structure
Before you buy any fish or add water, you’ll want to make sure that your system is built correctly. You can build a basic structure like the one below:

In this design, the grow bed is placed above the fish tank. Water from the fish tank is pumped up into the grow bed. The grow bed to fish tank volume ratio should be equal. If you decide to add another growing bed, you’ll need to add a sump tank with extra water like the image below:

There are a lot of great aquaponics designs out there that are quick, easy and clean. Feel free to share your designs below in the comment section.

Structural Requirements for Tank. When choosing tanks and other materials to build your structure, be sure to pick items that are waterproof and can handle a lot of weight. Gallons of water can add up quickly and weigh down a lot on your structure. Avoid plastic containers too.

You should also use non-toxic, food safe materials. Since you’ll be growing food in this structure, you don’t want to contaminate the food. This means using non-toxic and inert materials to create your structure.

Many people use large 50-, 30-, or 250-gallon tanks to house their fish and other aquaponics materials.

What Kind of Fish Will I Need?
There are a few different types of fish that work well in aquaponic environments. Here are a few:

Tilapia. Tilapia are the most popular aquaponic fish because they are easy to grow, like warm water and do not require high oxygen. They mature very quickly too.

Goldfish. Goldifish, like Tilapia, are very easy to grow and maintain. There are more commonly used by people who don’t eat their fish.

Catfish. In Florida, Tilapia are illegal. So, many people use catfish instead.

What Kind of Plants Should I Grow?
Most any type of plant can grow in an aquaponic environment. In fact, the only ones that don’t grow well in an aquaponic system are plants that require a pH environment much above or below 7.0. So, things like blueberries or azaleas won’t grow very well in a balanced pH environment.

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Things like carrots and potatoes will have a harder time expanding into a mature state with aquaponics. Items like salad greens, tomatoes, peppers and strawberries all grow very well in an aquaponics environment.

The plants are usually grown in a rocky structure with water flowing between the rocks.

Your Thoughts
So, what do you think? Have you tried creating an aquaponic garden in your home? Do you think it’s an option for self-reliant living? Comment below to tell us your thoughts.

Special thanks to Sylvia Bernstein, author of Aquaponic Gardening, for resources in this article.

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Raising chickens can be a very rewarding process. Besides providing you with fresh eggs, it can also be a teaching resource for your children and a way for you to become self-sufficient.

However, there are a few mistakes that people make when they first start raising chickens. Check out this list below and add your mistakes at the bottom to help others learn.

Building your Henhouse on the Ground
Many first timers will create a henhouse directly on the ground. They figure that the chickens will be able to peck for worms or that cleanup will be a lot easier. However, having a chicken coop on the ground can allow for foxes or other predators to work their way into the house. If there is an underground hole that you don’t know about, you may continue to lose your chickens. Instead, build a raised chicken coop that sits off the ground. Many people even incorporate removable or swing-away floors that allow for easy access cleaning.

- 3 Free Chicken Coop Designs –

The Material
While most people use rough recycled lumber to make their chicken coops, this may not be the best material to keep things clean. The rough board will be harder to clean, paint or whitewash. It’s better to use a material that is smoother and is easier to clean, wipe or paint.

Outside Access
Some larger chicken coops allow you to walk inside and collect your eggs. However, this can pose some problems. Going into the chicken coop might result in tracking chicken poo all over the house or intruding on the chickens while they’re looking for an available laying box. Instead, create outside access boxes that you can grab the eggs from the laying boxes without disturbing the chickens as they walk around the hen house. This will also keep your shoes a little cleaner.

Treats and Food
Determine what feed you will have for your chickens. It’s recommended that you get poultry feed and get feed with added protein during the colder seasons. Chickens also like fresh and dried worms, white grapes, pomegranate seeds, raspberries, chard, brussel spout leaves and cherry tomatoes. When the chickens begin to start laying eggs, they will need more calcium in their diet. Usually feeding them a few oyster shells will do the trick.

Heating
Depending on where you live, you’ll need to maintain a certain temperature inside the coop. If you install a heating lamp, make sure that it’s high enough that it doesn’t overheat the chickens or burn the shavings on the floor. Usually a 250 watt bulb will be warm enough. You’ll need to collect eggs frequently during the winter too because they will tend to freeze.

The Law
While most people are eager to start raising their own chickens, you may need to check your local ordinances. You don’t want to put a lot of effort into buying chickens or building a coop and then find out that it’s not allowed.

- How much land do you need to live on for a year? –

Bucket for Watering
A chicken can go a few days without feed, but they can’t go very long without water. Many first-timers just add a bucket of water into the coop that is tall enough so that the chickens won’t play in it and is heavy enough not to tip over easily. However, this encourages the birds to jump on top of the bucket and drink straight from the top – making it easier to tip over after a while. Consider using a hanging water source – called a waterer or a fount. This creates a trough, preventing the birds from sitting on the top.

Rooster to Hen Ratio
The ideal ratio of roosters to hens is 1:12, depending on the nature of the rooster. If you have a lower ratio than that, the rooster may get too aggressive with the hens. If you have a low ratio you’ll notice that your hens will tend to have bald spots on the back of their heads and featherless patches on their backs. If they’re over-agitated, hens’ egg lying will become sporadic.

Counting Your Birds
Each night, when you lock your chicken coop, you should count the chickens to make sure they are all in the coop. Usually, the chickens will move inside the hen house when it begins to get dark. However, you’ll notice that some chickens will try and hide their nests outside of the coop. They will set up a nest in nearby bushes and instead of moving into the coop they will move to their nest. Count your birds each night to make sure that you don’t have any unprotected birds that have set up rogue nests.

- Chicken with a 25 year shelf life? –

Preventing Passing Pets
Many people like the idea of free-range chickens. However, this may not mix well with urban homesteading. You may need to plan against passing pets – especially dogs on leashes. Don’t assume that owners will stop their dogs or be able to keep them on a leash. You’ll need to have some fence or security in place for passing dogs.

Your Advice
What advice do you have? Did you make a mistake that you’d like to add to the list? Comment below and share your knowledge.

In 1963, Oregon Freeze Dry began using a cutting-edge technology called freeze-drying to preserve food. The process, back then, was famous for creating astronaut ice cream and most people hadn’t seen the full potential of freeze-dried foods.

Founders were excited about the prospects and set up shop in Albany, Oregon, because of low-cost energy and abundant strawberries in the area. They began to freeze dry fruits for General Food cereals. However, the cereal business didn’t pan out for Oregon Freeze Dry.

They quickly realized that the government was going to need help in the conflict in Vietnam and decided to switch their efforts to creating freeze dried meals for the military. They landed their first government contract in 1967. These meals were perfect for troops because they were lightweight and easy to carry.

As troops began to return home, they recognized the benefits that freeze dried foods would have with camping, hiking and outdoor activities. To fill that demand, Oregon Freeze Dry released their own line of foods designed for outdoor recreation in the early ‘70s. The aptly called the line of food Mountain House.

Ever since the 1970s, Mountain House has continued to develop high quality freeze-dried foods that have become hugely popular among hikers, campers and other outdoor enthusiasts. They have since expanded their Mountain House to develop over 450 just-add-water meals, fruits, vegetables, desserts and more.

While Mountain House is probably most well-known for their line of backpacking and outdoor foods, they have also developed other freeze dried foods for Gerber Foods, the Nutri/System weight loss program and the military.

High Quality Ingredients
One of the reasons for Mountain House’s success is that they continue to supply the highest-quality ingredients in their foods. They pride themselves on using the best meats, vegetables, fruits, and meal components in their freeze-dried cans and pouches.

Years of Experience
Mountain House has been innovating the freeze-drying process for decades and lead the industry in technology and development.

Freeze Drying Process
While Oregon Freeze Dry has fine-tuned the freeze-drying process, they have come to understand how to best freeze-dry fruits, vegetables and entire meals. They extract 98-99 percent of the moisture from a food while still maintaining its nutritional quality, taste and structural quality. This allows you to simply add water to your dish and eat wherever and whenever you want.

Millions of people every year enjoy Mountain House products while they continue on to their next adventure and conquering the highest climbs and lowest valleys of the world.

When using your food storage, you’ll want to make sure that you are tracking your cans of food storage correctly. After all, no one wants to find a dusty old can that they purchased 30 years ago (even though with freeze-dried food, it still would be good.)

FIFO (First In First Out) shelves are an easy way to track your food storage and keep things organized if you use your food storage on a regular basis. You can pay a lot for a commercial shelving system or you could put in a little elbow grease and save yourself tons of money.

You’ll need:

Plywood
• Two pieces of 24 x 68 inches
• Three pieces of 31.5 x 17 9/16 inches
• Three pieces of 31.5 x 24 inches
• Two pieces of 24 x 32.5 inches
• Three pieces of 32.5 x 2 inches
• 15 strips measuring 17 9/16 x ½ inches
• 15 strips measuring 24 x ½ inches
Circular Saw
Wood screws or heavy-duty glue
Paint (optional)

Directions:

1. The first thing you’ll want to know about these shelves is that they’re designed for #10 food storage cans. A typical food storage can measures 7 inches tall. If you want to house smaller cans or customize your shelving for a different size, you can; but more about that later.

2. Start with your largest piece of plywood (24”x68”). Lay it down on the ground and begin measuring on one side of the board. Measure down 6.5 inches and make a mark. From that mark, measure another 10.5 inches down and make a mark. Measure down from that mark another 6.5 inches and mark. Continue this process until you reach the bottom of the plywood.

3. With the board still laying on the ground, move to the opposite side that you weren’t marking, begin by measuring from the top corner down 8.5 inches. Make a mark there. Measure from that mark another 6.5 inches down and make a mark. Measure 2 inches below that and mark it on the board. Repeat this process until you get to the bottom of the board. Your board should look like the figure below:

4. Draw a line from the top mark on the right side, down to the corresponding mark on the left side. Then draw a line from the next mark on the left side to the corresponding mark on the right side.

5. Locate three ½-inch strips of wood measuring 24 inches long. Locate the other three ½-inch strips of wood measuring 17 9/16-inches long. You can drill or glue these strips on to the lines that you’ve drawn. You’ll notice that the 17 9/16-inch strips won’t reach all the way across the board, and that’s fine. They will always be above the 24-inch strips.

6. Repeat steps 3-5 with the other large piece of plywood (24”x68”). You should however, draw your lines mirrored to your previous measurements.

7. Lay the two large boards on their sides and use the base and top boards to secure them together. Make sure that the two large boards (24”x68”) are placed in a mirrored way facing each other.

8. Stand up the large box that you’ve created

9. Now that we’ve created the basic structure of the shelving unit, we can move on to creating the shelves that will lay onto the 1/2-inch strips that we’ve secured. We’ll be creating shelves that will have 4 ramps of cans. Each can will roll down the 7.5-inch ramp that we create.

10. Begin by locating three boards measuring 31.5” x 17 9/16”. Measure from one end of the board to the other making a mark every 7.5 inches.

11. Now, glue or drill the 1/2-inch strips (measuring 17 9/16”) perpendicular across the board as shown below:

12. Locate three boards measuring 31.5” x 24”. Measure from one end of the board to the other making a mark every 7.5 inches. Lay the strips measuring 24”x1/2” on the marks.

13. Your boards should look like these images below:

14. Slide the shelving units into the large case that you’ve created. The boards measuring 17 9/16” should be placed on the strips measuring 17 9/16”. The 24” boards should be laid on the 24” strips. The 17 9/16” strips will probably need to be drilled into the holdings. They can also be glued into place.

15. Now that your shelves are in place, You’ll want to install the lips on the bottom of each rotation space so that your can doesn’t roll right off the shelf once you put it in.

16. Locate the three strips measuring 32.5” x 2”. Use glue or a drill to secure these lips to the front of the case in front of the bottom of the 2nd, 4th and 6th space.

17. Now that you have your shelving and lips in place, the shelving unit should fit all securely together and allow for a can to be placed in the 1st, 3rd and 5th levels and rotate down to their corresponding shelving units (2nd, 4th and 6th levels respectively).

18. Paint and decorate your shelving unit as desired

MREs have been feeding our military for decades and there is a lot of science and testing that goes into these Meals-Ready-to-Eat.

In fact, the military has a whole department that is in charge of development of these unique meals. These meals are scientifically designed and crafted to have a 5 year shelf life and be immediately edible at any time. The metalized bags are also a high enough quality that you can throw them on a heat source and it won’t melt the bag or leak onto the food.

So, while creating your own MREs, there are some limitations. While a typical MRE has prepared, wet food inside. These homemade MREs will contain freeze-dried food and include a packet of water. Most Mylar bags are able to handle hot liquids (like boiled water) but aren’t necessarily meant for cooking in. You’ll have to find a military-grade metal bag that is strong enough to cook on a direct heat source if you want to make a true MRE. When you’re ready to eat the food, just open up the homemade MRE, pour in the water and eat away!

- Read about Military Meals throughout our history - 

However, these homemade MRE packets are great for camping or emergency supplies. If you add an oxygen abosorber into the bag, you should be able to get a pretty long shelf life out of the packet and they could easily fit in the trunk of your car or in a 72-hour kit.

You’ll need:

• Metalized Mylar Bags
• Freeze-dried food (or powdered drink mix)
• Heating element (hair straightener or non-steaming clothes iron)
• Vacuum sealer
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Directions:
1. Measure a square on the Mylar bag that is the size of homemade MRE that you desire. Below, I’ve made one that meaures 6 inches by 11 inches.

2. Use your heating element to seal the metal together along the measurement to create a metalized pouch (one side should be open). Make the seal outside of the square that you’ve drawn.

3. Commercial MREs come with wet food inside and are specifically tailored to last inside of a metalized pouch. However, you can get a longer shelf life by using freeze-dried just-add-water meals. Add 1-2 cups of food into the metalized pouch that you’ve created. For an extended shelf life, you can also add an oxygen absorber inside the pouch – but remove it before you eat the contents.

4. Once the food is inside, use a vacuum sealer to suck the air out of the bag (if you desire) and use the heating element to securely seal the open end of the bag. After you seal the end, you are welcome to cut a half inch of the sealed bag off the corners to save on space in your pack.

5. Repeat this process with your other snacks and sides.
6. Bundle all of the homemade MRE bags and water pouches together inside of your pack.

Eating the Homemade MRE
When you’re out camping or in an emergency situation, eating your homemade MRE is simple. Just rip open the MRE bag and pour the pouch of water inside. If you have a military-grade metal bag, you can use a MRE Flameless heater to heat the contents.

You might also be interested in these articles:

What to pack in a bug out bag
 What is a Julian Date?
8 Creative Ways to Heat an MRE